Tag: herreskrædder

It’s all about the lining

Making a bespoke jacket is a journey and on the way there are lots of decisions to make. Some are made in the workroom while drafting the paper pattern, cutting the fabric and basting the jacket for the first fitting. Then there is the moment of the fitting. The customer puts on the jacket, checks himself out in the mirror and hopefully approves the general fit while minor alterations are done by me.

One important question is: what lining are we gonna use for the jacket? It’s an important question as it defines one crucial part of a full-bespoke mens jacket.

For this jacket I suggested to look into some silk prints from Swiss Haute-Couture fabric house Jakob Schläpfer. Their prints are modern, bold and actually quite spectacular.

So yes – this jacket is all about the lining.

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The jacket was cut and basted for the first fitting according to the my sketch I made for the client. Once the jacket was ready for the first fitting and put on the mannequin I started to do some styling research for the lapel and the sleeve opening as I thought it might be fun to go off the classic-jacket-style track and decided to suggest to make a shawl collar and turn-up cuffs instead.

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Fabric 95% Wool 5% Cashmere Art. 14009 from Loro Piana
Lining 100% silk, Art. satin 165 print 202041 856 multicolor from Jakob Schläpfer
Price 24.000 DKK

To Order: Basic Block Men’s Coat Pattern

The basic block men’s coat pattern – in size 46 to 54 – printed on paper in black & white, full scale with size guide and key body measurement chart.

The blocks have been produced by professional pattern cutter and bespoke tailor Oliver Häberli www.oliverhaeberli.dk and then thoroughly tested in calico before being graded to produce the full range of sizes supplied.

These blocks are produced without seam allowance and are intended for professional use and provide a contemporary and modern standard fit.

Price per print: 350.- DKK excl. Moms and postage
Order: send an email to info@oliverhaeberli.dk (Please provide delivery/shipping address) or call +4571706571 for more information.

Basic Block Men’s Coat sizes 46 – 54

PLEASE NOTE THESE ARE NOT SEWING PATTERNS- THEY ARE BASIC BLOCKS DESIGNED FOR PATTERN DEVELOPMENT

Full bespoke handmade suit

This suit was ordered by a Gentleman in need for a lightweight wardrobe.
We selected a beautiful fabric from the Italian supplier Ermenegildo Zegna and decided to go for a rather unusual but showstopper lining from supplier Lear&Browne.
For customers wearing a bigger size I always suggest to make trousers with braces and a slightly higher waist. The coat has a classic fit with a peak lapel.

Fabric Art. 36105 in 100% Wool
Bunch TRAVELLER by Ermenegildo Zegna
Price 38’000 Kroner

Full Bespoke Jacket with peak lapel. Customer size 62
Full Bespoke Jacket with peak lapel. Customer size 62
Lining by Lear&Browne with multicolored skull print
Lining by Lear&Browne with multicolored skull print
Sleeve vent with handmade buttonholes and mother of pearl buttons
Sleeve vent with handmade buttonholes and mother of pearl buttons
Trousers with braces and a slightly higher cut waistband for more comfort.
Trousers with braces and a slightly higher cut waistband for more comfort.
Trousers with braces and a v-split at the center back waistband