Author: Oliver Häberli

Fashion Show 2018 – Danish Tailors Guild

The annual Fashion Show of the Danish Tailors Guild held in the Crafts Guild Hall in the heart of Copenhagen showcased the vibrant and diverse scene of independent crafts businesses still going strong in the danish Capital. More than ever are handmade goods popular in a time of digitalization and administration. The more we distance ourselves from the “real world” the more we crave for goods made with passion, skills, creativity, endurance and love. It is as if you can feel these qualities worked into those handmade clothes, leather-goods, hats and jewelry and transcend it to the person wearing these items.

For this years Fashion Show we decided to create two Formal Menswear Outfits in a classic silhouette. A young, contemporary slim-fit cut using unconventional materials in bright colors.

Laugenes Opvisning 2018
Laugenes Opvisning 2018

Mounier Lacoste from Scoop Models is wearing a formal dinner Jacket. He is looking dapper in this outfit and he loved wearing the jacket – he even asked us if he can wear it for the upcoming Christmas Party. The super-light allover printed chiffon fabric from swiss house Jakob Schläpfer does the trick and is a real eye-catcher. So let the Party begin!

Laugenes Opvisning 2018
IMG_4691

Mads Broberg from Scoop Models is wearing a so called “Beltsac”Jacket. This Jacket was very popular in the 1920. Before cutting the Jacket in the final fabric we made a Calico Jacket to check the Style and Fit. This step-by-step process allows us to make chances on the pattern before cutting the final cloth. I felt in love with this allover-print Organdy from Jakob Schläpfer and thought it might be the perfect fabric to us to make the jacket for the Fashion Show.

Follow my professional journey on Instagram: oliverhaeberli

Prices upon request.

It’s all about the lining

Making a bespoke jacket is a journey and on the way there are lots of decisions to make. Some are made in the workroom while drafting the paper pattern, cutting the fabric and basting the jacket for the first fitting. Then there is the moment of the fitting. The customer puts on the jacket, checks himself out in the mirror and hopefully approves the general fit while minor alterations are done by me.

One important question is: what lining are we gonna use for the jacket? It’s an important question as it defines one crucial part of a full-bespoke mens jacket.

For this jacket I suggested to look into some silk prints from Swiss Haute-Couture fabric house Jakob Schläpfer. Their prints are modern, bold and actually quite spectacular.

So yes – this jacket is all about the lining.

IMG_0344
IMG_0345

The jacket was cut and basted for the first fitting according to the my sketch I made for the client. Once the jacket was ready for the first fitting and put on the mannequin I started to do some styling research for the lapel and the sleeve opening as I thought it might be fun to go off the classic-jacket-style track and decided to suggest to make a shawl collar and turn-up cuffs instead.

IMG_4101
IMG_4109

Fabric 95% Wool 5% Cashmere Art. 14009 from Loro Piana
Lining 100% silk, Art. satin 165 print 202041 856 multicolor from Jakob Schläpfer
Price 24.000 DKK

LADIES SUMMER TWEED COAT

White and navy with hints of red – okay, so we’re starting off with colors that aren’t that loud and bright but the combination of white and navy with hints of red is essential if you want to pull off a nautical look this summer. Nautical themed outfits are going to be big this summer so if you want to get on with the latest and the hottest, make sure you have a few items in these colors that you can wear together for a complete look.

I had the pleasure to make this knee-length summer coat cut from a cloth by Holland & Sherry featuring a shaped two-piece collar, contrast denim details at collar, front closure and sleeve vents, single jetted pockets at the forepart and slits at the side seams. Did I mention the real glas buttons?

IMG_0265
IMG_0276
IMG_0275
IMG_0279

Fabric from Holland & Sherry
Ladieswear Collection Art. 478904
Lining 100% silk satin
Price 27.000 DKK

PRINTED SUMMER LADIES JACKET

There are many elements that make up an outfit, but if one had to choose a lynchpin, it would be hard to argue with the jacket. And by far the most multitudinous and multifarious basic style is, of course, the single-breasted jacket. Most commonly finished with one to three buttons and notched or peak lapels, it’s a design that practically defines much of what we know as contemporary tailoring. One can scarcely imagine a world without it.

On a unlined jacket, the seams can be ‘taped’ with the same material as the lining would have been, creating an opportunity for decoration, or they can be sealed with the same cloth as the jacket. I decided to go for the sealed seams option like the seams at a mens shirt.

It was a great pleasure to work with this printed cotton fabric from renowned Swiss fabric house Jakob Schläpfer. You can find more information about Jakob Schläpfer here.

IMG_0301
IMG_0296-2

Fabric from Jakob Schläpfer Art. Seal 2011 Print
100% Cotton Kreationsnummer 202082
Version 615 multicolor
Price 23.000 DKK

LADIES EVENING JACKET

This evening jacket with classic menswear tailoring details such as peak lapel, strong shoulders and a single button fastening creates an elegant silhouette crafted from a fluid wool / cashmere glen-check flannel with printed velvet dots.

Our bespoke ladies jackets always come with pure silk lining from Italian producers.
For this order we selected a printed silk satin with lipstick motifs.
The customer who ordered the jacket will appreciate this detail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fabric Art. 14009 from Loro Piana
95% Wool 5% Cashmere
Price 26.000 DKK

 

LADIES TWO-PIECE SUIT IN WOOL DENIM

 

The Deux-Pièces is cut from a fabric produced and developed by Ermenegildo Zegna Italy. It’s a novelty cloth because “Denim” is not often used in Bespoke Tailoring. The look is minimal, the shape classic but far away from boring.

Our bespoke ladies jackets are always lined in pure silk from Italian producers. For this order we selected a printed silk satin with poppy flower and leave motifs.

The “Made in Trivero” unique denim is exclusive fabric innovation of wool indigo dying that retains traditional denim’s atypical properties while preserving the richness and warmth of the lush, iconic Trofeo Wool.

Inherent expertise and an understanding of cutting and tailoring ensure a garment of the highest calibre. Our garments are handmade and incorporate all the features you’d expect from a high end bespoke garment. Real buttonhole cuffs and lots of handwork reflect the highest standards of workmanship.

Fabric Art.  58111 in 100% Wool
Bunch TROFEO DENIM by Ermenegildo Zegna
Price 26900.- DKK

HANDMADE PAIR OF TROUSERS

A never-before-seen groundbreaking triumph comes alive in the first True Wool Denim. This utterly innovative textile breakthrough, right from the core of Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna, hails a unique class of denim, entirely crafted with the Zegna Trofeo Wool. The “Made in Trivero” unique denim is not without an extremely exclusive fabric innovation of wool indigo dying that retains traditional denim’s atypical properties while preserving the richness and warmth of the lush, iconic Trofeo Wool.

The customer asked for a handmade pair of flat front trousers, french pockets and gently ironed creases with the look of denim but cut from a cloth with all the properties of a pure wool: light, naturally breathable and extremely soft.

The look is modern and contemporary, with classic detailing: a striking synthesis of material innovation and classic tailoring. It’s a new type of wearing denim, created for the modern man.

Fabric Ermenegildo Zegna from the TROFEO DENIM Collection
100% Wool
Price 6285 DKK

Bibliography of Historical Tailoring and Cutting Manuals

To the best of my knowledge, there is no place online that gathers the various–freely available–Victorian and earlier cutting systems.  Professional tailors–and cutters, which is a separate job, often in the same shop–use cutting systems rather than actual patterns.

  The main difference, of course is in fit and style–a pattern may come graded to a number of sizes, but these are still ideal and won’t necessarily fit; cutting systems, on the other hand, use scales and mathematics to give proportions and how to draft for the body of the customer.

They typically also have notes on modifying the draft for varying postures and such.  The majority of the systems were for menswear, and that is my focus–however, there were variations for tailored ladies’ clothing as well, and I will include those that I find.

To view the full list of tailoring manuals click Matsukaze Sewing Blog.

Laugenes Opvisning 2017 / Fashion Show Tailors Guild 2017

This event organized by its president Johnny Wichmann and his team focuses on promoting local artisanship, craft, tradition, heritage and luxury in Denmark. The preservation and innovation of the traditional craft, as well as the support of young talents with this presentation of a “Fashion Show of Creativity” aims to strengthen the local businesses and promote its products and services.

We had the pleasure to join the annual fashion show of the Danish Tailors Guild and send three full-bespoke menswear outfits down the catwalk at Moltkes Palæ in Copenhagen.

Model Mads wearing a warm overcoat, vintage wool cloth from I.W.Hvidberg.
Model Mounier looking dapper in a silk jacket with embroidered dragonflies, cloth from Loro Piana.
Model Per looking elegant in his full-bespoke suit, cloth from Harrisons of Edinburgh.
Model Mounier is greeting HRH Princess Benedikte, patron of the Tailors Guild.
Model Per impressing the audience. The ladies seem to be pleased.
HRH Princess Benedikte and Oliver Häberli having a chat backstage after the Fashion Show.
Oliver Häberli’s sketch book and some fabric bunches backstage.

Photos©Allan Bjerre

Tweed Guide

The Origin of Tweed
It is commonly thought that tweed emerged in Scotland and Ireland as a way for the farmers there to battle the chilly, damp climate that characterizes those parts. Tweed began as a hand-woven fabric. The cloth was rough, thick, and felted and the colors were muted and earthy. It was truly a working man’s cloth. As far as the name goes, there are a couple of theories.
There is a River Tweed in Scotland, and the cloth was made in the Tweed Valley, and some believe that is the origin of the word.
A more popular legend has it that the name tweed is a twist on the Scottish word for “tweel” or twill in our parlance, which is the signature weave of the fabric. It is said that in 1826, a London clerk accidentally transcribed an order to “tweel” and wrote “tweed” instead, and from there the name came into use. Whatever the origin, tweed is a rugged fabric, resistant to wind and water with excellent insulating properties. Read the full article here.